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Part 1 of this series about our trip to Belize armed you with trivia so you can nail the “Belize It or Not” category when it pops up on Jeopardy. “I’ll take Belize It or Not for $500, Alex.”
Part 2’s fascinating installment is about our day-long trek into the wild jungles to see the ancient Lamanai Mayan ruins in northern Belize. No one told me I needed to pack a machete.
We hired a tour guide/driver to take us to the boat dock where we would then hop on a boat and go up river to the Mayan ruins. Our tour guide/driver was a wealth of information about Belize and it made the hour and a half drive pleasant, if you turned a blind eye to the evidence of poverty all around. The houses became sparse the farther we went into the countryside, but the unifying theme was laundry flapping on clotheslines in the Belizean breeze.
I have to say this. Belizeans know how to keep their whites white.
The driver pulled over to a collection of outbuildings that looked like they would collapse if you sneezed in their general direction. As it turned out, it was the put-in point for our boat ride to the ruins. I had my doubts about the wisdom of taking said trip at this point. But, a dozen or so not-insane looking people also waited to get on the boat to be sold up-river. Hey, I’m game. Or stupid. Pick one.
Our jungle port of call.
Our boat driver/Mayan ruin tour guide was charming and knowledgeable about the river’s flora and fauna. It was a tad disconcerting that the trip took us through crocodile-infested waters and under a tree canopy filled with snakes ready to pounce (can snakes pounce?) on us, bats looking batty while clinging to branches waiting for nightfall, and spider and howler monkeys up to their usual monkey business. The iguanas looked bored with the whole affair.
Do you get the feeling we are being watched?
It was like the Jungle Ride at Disneyland but the animals were real. Or like the movie African Queen. Or Apocalypse Now. Or Indiana Jones.
The Lamanai site was home to the Mayans for 2,000 years until the civilization’s collapse. There are burial pyramids, ceremonial temples, and the remnants of the royal quarters. Only a mere fraction of the site has been excavated. A Canadian dude did two major digs, but without for funding the project, most of the site is still succumbed to the jungle.
I’m not going to give you a lecture on the lost Mayan civilization. I’m no expert but I found the Mayan story fascinating. If you have a chance, look them up. They probably have a Facebook page.
Our boat driver/tour guide led us on an hour-long hike through the jungle to the various ruins and promised we could climb up the tallest one, aptly named, High Temple. Those Belizeans are so clever.
Anywho, our tour group gathered around our guide at the base of High Temple in anticipation of a few words about the pyramid. Here is what he said. “Listen up, guys. Be very careful climbing up the face of the temple. Two days ago a woman lost her balance and fell 85 feet. She was air-lifted out with multiple broken bones and it is likely she will not survive the fall.”
The arrow shows how far the woman fell.
What kind of a send-off is that!? “Enjoy the climb but don’t fall to your certain death!”
Climbing the pyramid was something my husband and I always wanted to do and we weren’t about to delete it off our bucket list while standing in the ruin’s shadow.
It is hard to tell from the picture, but the side of the pyramid is precariously steep. They installed a rope to hang on to for dear life while scrambling up the side. While the steps look innocent enough, they are high and it is like doing vertical lunges while clinging to a flimsy rope.
We made it to the top but my knees were shaking from the exertion as well as paralyzing fear. The top of the pyramid was too damn high for my liking and all I could think about was the poor woman who fell. I also swear a Mayan ghost was considering pushing me off the pyramid as a sacrifice to one of his virgin-loving gods. Then he realized I was the mother of three and backed off.
Those aren’t ants on the ground. Those are people.
I am haunted by the fate of the woman who fell and will let you know if I hear how she is doing. The tour guide fears the Belizean government will shut down the site or no longer allow tourists to climb the pyramids. Frankly, I am surprised you are allowed to even touch the pyramids. I guess they figure they have lasted this long, they ain’t going anywhere anytime soon.
No, that is not a self-portrait of me carved in stone.
Robin Coyle 
Hi Robin, I hope that you read this as it is an old thread. I was one of those Americans that happened to be there when that woman fell and offered assistance I often wondered about the outcome. I hope that Tara was not given proper information as I’d hate to think she did not survive. I told someone the story of helping a woman who had fallen and, with technology being technology, within seconds she had found your blog. I have looked elsewhere for information on the woman with no luck. Dave’s account is for the most part accurate except neither other woman on the tour with me, the one who took the lead, or I are veterinarians or nurses. But that really isn’t relevant. Like you, I loved my time in Belize, despite this unfortunate incident. I’m glad I found your blog to provide some answers.
Technology is amazing in that it led you to my blog post about the horrific accident. That makes 3 or 4 people who have commented on this blog that they where there on or about the time of the accident. What a small world we live in.
I’m sure your adrenaline was pumping as you helped the woman. I don’t do well in emergencies (I tend to fall apart) so I’m glad I wasn’t there for it. Thank goodness you were.
We fell in love with Belize and made a second trip in May of this year. Instead of the pyramids we did the zip lines and river cave tubing. AWESOME!
Thanks for stopping by.
Pingback: Oh, Belize . . . | Robin Coyle
We were there a few minutes after the woman had fallen. She was attended to by an American veterinarian and a nurse, the only two medical people in the crowd, A pickup truck came with a board that they used as a stretcher. They strapped her in, immobilizing her head and body and then another pickup truck came with a real stretcher but it was too late for that, so they used it to keep the sun off her body as they hauled her away in the back of the pickup. She was conscious but didn’t know what had happened. The vet came down and told us the had broken a leg, arm and ribs. Her shoes were midway on the stairs — they had fallen off as she went down.
My guess from my observation was that she was in her mid-30’s. The day was scorching hot and it could have led to her getting dizzy and losing her grip on the rope, The truck took her back to the river and a boat took her upstream to where a medivac helicopter was to land and take her to the hospital in Belize city. She had a traveling companion who went with her, but as to her fate…I don’t know.
As soon as the trucks left, they cleaedr the caution tape and people scrambled up the pyramid as if nothing had happened. I’m a senior and have climbed many Mayan pyramids, but when I saw how steep those steps were, and a rope, not a metal rail to hold on to, I decided it wasn’t worth the climb to risk falling. If you want to climb high, go to Tikal and use the wooden stairs that they put in place on Temple II and IV.
What a coincidence that you were there and found my blog post about it! How in the world did you find my blog? Thank you so much for the report. The accident has been haunting me. I couldn’t find any newspaper articles about it on the Internet. I climbed my first and last Mayan pyramid that day. I’ll stand back at a safe distance and admire them from now on.
Found you site accidentally while Googling. I never heard anything about the accident while in Belize. I don’t think they want to broadcast these incidents as to not discourage tourism. We also did the ATM cave which requires some significant climbing on rock faces. Anytime we asked if anybody was ever hurt, they always told us no.
As far as what happened to the lady who fell. I don’t think we will ever know. We are going to Cozumel soon and will visit Tulum. Will watch our steps. By the way, when I climb Mayan pyramids I carry my Leki Wanderfreund walking stick.
http://shop.leki.com/en/product.php?product_id=50727
Excellent for safe trekking visitng Mayan archeology sites.
That’s terrible about the woman. I can understand how someone could lose her balance on those pyramids. I can barely look over a second-story balcony, never mind something that steep!
Love the pictures!
Yeah…forget Belize…Rick won’t go because to the crocs and snakes…he’s deathly afraid of snakes…kills any that he finds in the grass which is usually one or two each time he mows. But he is amazingly brave when he has a lawn mower or weed-wacker in his hands. Sadly, they are too big to fit in his suitcase. We’ll have to find a different ruin.
He could always carry them on. Fitting them in the overhead compartment might be tricky, but he could take the handles off.
You didn’t answer my question about your blog . . .
Yes I did…;)
Those remind me of the steps of Chichen Itza in Mexico. We climbed those years ago though I don’t think tourists can make that climb anymore, either. A good thing, because my knees would no longer be pleased with such an assent. I’d be that woman falling 85 feet for sure.
The climb was harrowing. The descent was a nightmare. But I’m happy I crossed it off my list of things to do. Next up . . . sky diving. Not really, but I wanted to impress you with my bravery.
That you did!
Pingback: Belize it or Not ~ Part 3 | Robin Coyle
Another great post and an adventure for the ages.
Well done, Robin!
Thank you. It was an adventure and not falling off a pyramid was a coup in my mind.
Archaeologist Dennis E. Puleston was killed in 1978 while standing on a pyramid at Chichen Itza in Yucatán. He was struck by lightning from a storm some miles away. He had taken his children up the pyramid to watch the storm. They were met with a far more disturbing sight.
Having worked on both Maya and Aztec sites as a graduate student, I know firsthand that Maya ruins are spectacular. But anyone visiting them should be extremely careful and observant of the surroundings. Venomous snakes and scorpions abound. The monumental steps are steep and often slippery. One misstep can easily lead to serious injury or death. Good medical care is usually hours away—too many hours when serious injuries or deadly snakebites are involved.
The incident your guide related could easily have been true, not just a story to scare the tourists.
Oh good lord!~ Imagine watching your father get struck down by lightening. How awful for his children.
That is so cool that you worked on Mayan and Aztec sites. How long did you do that? I want to hear more about that. Sounds like an idea for a blog post for you!
It is sad that they don’t have funding to unearth more of the site we visited. It seems like graduate students would be willing to PAY for the chance to work on them. The area is so rich in archeological treasures.
Having been one, I can tell you very few archaeology graduate students have money to spend like that. 😉 I was fortunate to get small stipends and department grants to go to Honduras and Mexico for several years. And there’s a lot of competition even for tenured faculty for the limited grant funds available from places like the National Science Foundation. A lot of Americans would probably think too many tax dollars go for that research as it is, I’m afraid. Then there are the bureaucratic headaches of dealing with the local governments. What I saw was too much for me, and I switched to North American archaeology.
Like I said, I think your adventures would make a fascinating blog post.
Totally cool. i had a post on the Mayan exhibit here in Minneapolis last fall. Fascinating civilization. I would like to visit there before i get too old to make the climb. You know bad knees and all that. 🙂
The climb requires well-oiled knees and a reckless disregard of fear of heights.
I have neither. But I will.persevere. 🙂
Fabulous! Truly. My sons and I climbed the big pyramid in Mexico, it was daunting even for them. It was worth it though. I am glad you made the climb, come on now aren’t you glad?
Beautiful pictures.
Yes, I am very glad I climbed it. My 2 second view from the top was spectacular before I got the heck off the thing. It is too high. Too damn high.
Wow, what an adventure! Thanks for picturing that boat ride, and yes, I believe snakes can pounce on you, especially anacondas. I can’t believe your boat guide didn’t tell you that if one of those wraps itself around you, you won’t survive, even if they chop off its head with a machete…
As for the warning before climbing the stairs, wow! I have fear of heights so I would have enjoyed the pyramid from the bottom, fall or no fall. 🙂
Now you tell about the whole snake thing. Remind me to never take a boat ride through the jungle again. The pyramid was deceptively high. I’m glad I climbed it and even more glad I never have to do it again!
Wow, I had no idea they were that steep. I’m impressed that you climbed them. This girl is too out of shape for such a climb. When you were naming movies, I was glad to see you didn’t say Deliverance. Whew.
I would have said Deliverance if I had thought of it! The pyramids are impossibly steep but my adrenaline propelled me forward. You have to climb down them backwards, like a ship’s ladder. Never again!
Looks fantastic. I’ve always heard great things about Belize.
Part 3?
How funny. I was just over at your pad. Weird how that happens. Part 3 will be coming up in a few days. I need to give you all time to relish the words of Part 2.
I’m ready for Jeopardy, particularly if it’s the ‘did you know?’ week where the contestant can show a bit of personality and humor. I enjoy how you show your readers a site, but give it a bit of a humanistic slant. Brave you – and what a fabulous trip!
I can’t wait to go back to Belize. We may make it an annual trek. There is something special about the pace (low-key), the soft air, and the aquamarine Caribbean water.
You’ve sold me on it!!! When are we all going? 🙂
How about tomorrow? My bags are packed.
Ahhh, this is what dreaming is all about…
Glad you’re still in one piece! Aren’t those howlers crazy? They love making noise in the wee hours of the morning.
Fortunately there weren’t any monkeys on the island resort where we stayed. I woke to the sound of lapping waves on the beach. Or maybe it was my husband’s snoring.
You’re brave. There is no way I could get down once I made it to the top. Too scary.
Facebook page …you crack me up.
No . . . once you make it to the top all you want to do is get the heck down. And FAST. I think the Mayans also have an Instagram account, are active on Twitter, and have been known to Snapchat a virginal sacrificial offering a time or two.
That’s a scary view from the top there! I would hate to hear that story about the woman too, it’s worse I think to hear it was just a couple of days before. I’m not sure it was necessary to tell you. Hey, maybe it’s not true at all, maybe they just say that to scare people into taking extra care. Yes, that’s it, let’s go with that.
I wouldn’t like the snakes above, eek.
More pictures needed though Robin!
Yes. Perhaps instead of safety precautions, they use scare tactics. I believe that was my mother’s method of keeping me safe was as well. More pictures to follow in the rest of the series. Sadly, the photos don’t do the beauty of Belize justice. You will be glad to hear there are zero pictures of snakes and the crocodile photos didn’t turn out because they are the same color as the water. I’m happy to report there were no seagulls in Belize.
I couldn’t survive a climb like that without the security of a large rope or two and a crane.
Outstanding you made it to the top. No wonder your legs shook afterwards. Good thing you didn’t fall.
Wonderful story. I always had the idea Mayans were clever and colorful.
Going up was arduous. Coming down was petrifying. I’m glad that I did it once and don’t have to do it EVER again! It is sad that so little of the site is uncovered. It truly is a national treasure and awe-inspiring.
I can imagine.
I can’t take the altitude or the heights or minus ropes and pulleys. Would be awesome to see though.
Snakes? They can launch themselves … Impressed you summited – I’ve never understood the significance of those steep steps – the same in Angkor, for instance. 🙂
I could have gone all day without the story about the woman falling. It put the fear of Mayan gods in me. It is interesting how many civilizations, 1,000s of miles apart, felt the need to build pyramids.
The Angkoreans didn’t build pyramids per se, but their mountain towers did have those perpendicular stairs!
I get it about the cautionary tale – sounds a bit unnecessary, given the steepness of the climb. But then maybe ‘young’ people or others who believe they’re invincible test the boundaries a bit more than others of us? 🙂
Even after being told about the fall and the need to use the rope, one of the woman in our group didn’t! I was right behind her and had visions that if she fell, so would I! Tell me more about snakes launching themselves. No don’t. I want to go back to Belize and facts about launching snakes might put me off.
🙂 🙂
Completely fascinating! I’d heard the steps were very tall and very vertical….very scary. You are so lucky to have gotten there before some safety group closes it …or constructs an easy access ramp…which would take away Maya reality perpective.
(a real river jungle boat ride…the snakes above would freak me out)
Only with a person standing there do you realize how big the carvings are.
So intriguing…..(and more pictures?)
I’m not crazy about heights, but the story about the woman falling made it 10 times worse. I can’t find anything about how she is doing. The guide said her injuries were bad. Very bad. I have lots more pictures but I hate to bore you all to tears.
More picture – we only weep out of envy!
There will be more photos in future posts about the rest of the trip. As beautiful as Belize is, pictures don’t do it justice.
I was there, a few weeks later. Our guide told us, “She succumbed to her injuries.” It was terrifying to contemplate. We climbed it (me, my husband, and my 12-year-old daughter). I felt like the worst mom in the world when we got to the top because you don’t realize how steep and how high it is until you get up there, but my husband and daughter kept telling me it was fine, and I didn’t want to ruin their opportunity. Bear in mind this is all before we found out about the lady who died. Also, there’s kind of a surreal, Disneyland adventure feel to the whole experience, and when everyone else just starts climbing, you figure, “Well I guess this is what people do.” I know, I know, I’m an idiot. I will NEVER do it again, and I’m just so grateful to God my family and I made it down safely. I wish the authorities would do something about that climb to make it safer to stupid people like me.
Hi Tara! How in the world did you stumble upon this old blog post of mine? I am so sad to hear that the woman did not survive. My knees were truly quivering when we reached the top and then I couldn’t wait to get down! I’m glad we did it, but like you, never again!
Wanna hear something weird? I was wearing the same outfit yesterday when you commented. I don’t think I have worn that combination since that trip!